Saturday, April 13, 2013

Dublin

Alright, so, the next big adventure of Spring Break was to go back to Dublin for a whole weekend - without all the crazy drunk people who inhabited the city on St. Paddy's Day. So grandma and I packed our bags and took the bus to Dublin to spend the weekend in a hostel, which was a first for both of us. But hey, vacation calls for being spontaneous and doing new things right? Turns out hostels can be really fun and we had a great time. Prepare yourself for a really long blog since we had a very action packed weekend!

Dublin is the largest and most populated city in Ireland with over 1 million people living in the urban areas, definitely not a place you can visit in a day and expect to see everything there is to see. Even in the two and a half days we were there there was so much more we didn't see. But between visiting cafes and shopping til we dropped we had an amazing time in Dublin and I plan on visiting one more time before flying home.

 
This is Abbey Court, the hostel we stayed in. Right off the main street and across from the River Liffey, it was located in a very convenient place for catching the bus and for shopping....and more importantly it was only a 5 minute walk from Starbucks! The people who worked there were extremely nice and helpful, and it is a place I would go back and stay at if I ever go back to Dublin. 




One of the first places we went was Trinity College, located right in the heart of the city centre. The university dates all the way back to 1592, when it was founded by Queen Elizabeth 1, and is the oldest in all of Ireland. Famous historical figures who graduated from Trinity College include Jonathan Swift and Oscar Wilde, the authors of A Modest Proposal and The Picture of Dorian Gray.



While originally a Protestant school, Trinity college has now become widely known for its Catholic population. It wasn't until the late 1960s that Catholics were able to be freely admitted. The whole university takes up about 40 acres of land and has an abundance of spectacular architecture that attracts visitors from all around the world.




One of the biggest attractions in Trinity College is of course the Book of Kells. This was a must see for grandma and I. The Book of Kells is an amazingly beautiful manuscript from the Middle Ages which contains the Four Gospels: Mark, Matthew, Luke, and John. Produced in a monastery on the Isle of Iona, which is located in Scotland, the manuscript was moved to Ireland sometime around the 9th century after a Viking raid. It is extremely well preserved and is one of the most precious historical and religious artifacts in Ireland, only having suffered minimal water damage to some of the pages and missing the front cover - which to this day has still never been found. The Book of Kells was made out of calf skin pages (over 600 of them have survived), written entirely in Latin, and has exquisite artwork inside.

Directly above the Book of Kells exhibit is another Irish treasure: The Long Room. The library has the largest collection of books in all of Ireland and was built in the early to mid-1700s. It is just over 200 feet long and 42 feet wide, housing approximately 200,000 of Ireland's oldest books in 21 alcoves. Originally the Long Room was only a single story, however in the 1800s the university ran out of room and additional levels were added and the roof raised to make room for more collections. The library in its entirety contains a copy of every book published in Britain and Ireland - a staggering total of over 3 million books. What was so great for me, besides the fact that I am an obsessive reader, was the amazing smell. You know that smell when you walk into a bookstore and smell all the new books? Well imagine that times a thousand. Truly an amazing experience just being in that room.




 Oh, and what's Ireland without a leprechaun or too? A little weird that he was taller than me but hey, sometimes you just have to go with it ;)





Me being a history nerd, we also went and visited the archaeology museum. There were so many different exhibits to see that we could have spent the entire day there but since we only had a little while we tried to get a good sampling of several different sections of the museum. We saw lots of dead people, gold shiny stuff, and some amazing craftsmanship from the Viking Age and before. We also went to the National Library. Besides the beautiful architecture and lighting inside the library, our experience there was shaped by our short trip to the genealogy center. There we were able to find out more about our family roots, confirming that we have ancestors from Newry, Ireland.


 Probably the most fun we had in Dublin was the Hop On Hop Off bus. We bought tickets that were good for two days and the bus took us on an hour and a half tour all around Dublin, stopping at over twenty different hotspots around the city. I have been on some not so good bus tours but this one was so great - the drivers were funny and we could get on and off the bus whenever we saw something we wanted to explore. Definitely something that was worth the money!


Since grandma hadn't seen any castles yet, and I am a definite sucker for castles, we went on a search for Dublin Castle. The funny thing is that the castle is hidden in plain sight - we walked past it probably two or three times before we realized we were indeed in the right place. The castle is right in the heart of the city, right off a main street, and is surrounded by normal looking buildings which turns out to be the best camouflage there is.


There is a long history of occupation at the site of Dublin castle, from a Gaelic ringfort to a Danish Viking fortress, to a motte and bailey wooden castle founded by the Normans in the 1170s, and then finally a stone structure constructed in the early 1200s ordered by King John. The castle boasts one of the rare surviving medieval towers, the only one left from medieval Dublin, which was used to hold prisoners during the time of the Tudors. Dublin castle has also hosted many families of famous English royal administrators, including one who answered to the infamous King Henry VIII.


Next on our list was St. Patrick's Cathedral, one of the most famous cathedrals in all of Ireland. There are in actuality several churches and cathedrals named after Saint Patrick, but this is perhaps the most impressive. The church was built alongside the site of the ancient well in Dublin where Saint Patrick supposedly baptized converts to Christianity during his visit.


The present building dates back to 1220, and four years later in 1924 it was granted cathedral status. Besides being the largest cathedral in all of Ireland, it was often the largest enclosed space in the country as well. It is also the site of the very first school in Ireland founded in 1432- the Cathedral Choir School. Famous visitors include Jonathan Swift, Oliver Cromwell, King James I, and Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.


Some of the building may contain parts of medieval structures/elements, however due to the lack of records preserved it is impossible for sure to know which parts are medieval and which are Victorian influence. The cathedral is still used as a place of worship today and remembrance ceremonies are held there every year in November. It is truly a beautiful place.





And of course the most important stop of our Dublin adventure: the infamous Guinness Factory! The brewery was founded in 1759 by a man named Arthur Guinness.  An interesting fact we learned is that Arthur Guinness leased the building for 9000 years, at only 45 pounds a year! By 1914 it was established that the Guinness Brewery was the largest brewery in the entire world, covering 64 acres of land.


Today the Guinness Storehouse is the most popular tourist attraction in Ireland, however it is no longer the biggest brewery in the world. The exhibition consists of 7 floors in total, the top floor being known as the Gravity Bar where you can see a panorama of the entire city of Dublin. The brewery still produces over 2 million pints of stout per day and employs over 600 people.


Clearly, this picture is self-explanatory. While she will probably kill me for posting it for everyone to see, I just couldn't resist this picture perfect moment. We of course did try a pint of Guinness, however we did not find it to be very tasteful and neglected to claim our free pint at the end of the tour. Guess we'll stick to our love of Bailey's Irish Cream instead.

And here's a picture of how ridiculously cute we are! Twins for a day :)

More to come soon!

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

St. Paddy's

I am soooo sorry for how long its been since I put up a new blog! My grandmother came for two and a half weeks and we were gallivanting all over the Irish countryside, and then she left and I had to dig my way out of a mountain of homework. Now I am finally back! So, since I am so far behind on my adventures, I will be putting up several blogs throughout the next week or so to catch everybody up.

My grandmother had the great fortune to be in Ireland for St. Patrick's Day weekend, so we decided to make the trip up to Dublin to spend the day. The forecast for the weekend was pretty typical of Ireland: cloudy with a slight chance of rain. So, being hardy Oregonians, we packed our umbrellas and wore light jackets and figured we'd be totally fine right? WRONG! As we reached the outskirts of Dublin what do we see outside the windows of the bus...snow. Now your first thought might be that it would be awesome to have it snow on St. Patrick's Day, to see all the green contrasted with beautiful white stuff. However, when you don't have hats, gloves, scarves, or normal jackets..well snow becomes a whole different story.

To add to the incorrect weather forecast, the bus dropped us off near a castle and said "See everyone at 8 tonight!".....So we stood there shivering in the snow, no map, and no clue as to where we were let alone where the parade was going to be. We decided to become sheep and follow the mass. That, plus asking for directions (something that would later on in our journeys around Ireland become very unhelpful), led us to one of my most favorite places in the entire world: Starbucks. And while Starbucks may not be very exciting to some people, a hot drink and a dry place to watch the parade was good enough for us.

The parade turned out to be a little odd but really fun and fantastic at the same time. There were so many people from all over the world coming together to celebrate and I still can't believe we were there. After the parade we walked around the city for awhile, scouting the shops and trying not to get run over by drunken mobs. Every once in a while we went back to Starbucks to get warm, and then we found a great little pizza joint for dinner. All in all it was a crazy but fun day and I'm glad I got to share it with my grandma.

Here are just a few of the pictures from the parade:

 Lots of funny green hats for sure...this one is mild compared to some of the other!

 Even the kids were decked out! I loved his Irish Afro lol

 Dublin was quite literally a sea of green - green hats, shirts, pants, glasses, scarves, bows, tights, socks, hair - you name it I saw it in green!

 My favorite place in the world - whose sign just happens to be green! ;)

 It was a whale of a parade!

 Ireland, ho! There's green everywhere matey!

 I got to see my horses!! :) (Fortunately not in my burgers)

 Guy in a giant propelled bathtub? I was as confused as you probably all are...

 Its a small world after all....

 Lots of music in the air!

 Um..a scary banana? A live sponge? Heck if I know

 I don't even have a guess for this one...

 Going somewhere?

Knocked my socks off it did!

Sunday, March 10, 2013

A Lesson In Irish Speak

After being here in Ireland for almost two months, I'm finally starting to get a hang of how Irish people talk. Can I always understand them? No. But we'll just call it a work in progress. Here is a condensed version of things that Irish people say and what they mean would mean to us in the U.S. (some are pretty much the same and others are a little odd):


  • Craic (crack) = fun
  • Gobshite = idiot
  • Feck = essentially the PG-13 version of the F-word
  • Shite = another way of saying shit
  • Ah sure = a weird way of starting a sentence
  • Grand = good, fine, okay
  • Arse = a cooler way of saying ass
  • Ye = the Irish pronunciation of you
  • Jaysus = a weird way of pronouncing Jesus
  • Ah here = weird saying that can't really be explained
  • Yourself = another way of saying you
  • Lads = referring to lots of people (girls and guys)
  • What's the craic? = what's up?
  • Give out = way of shouting at someone
  • Yoke = thingamajig, thing
  • Deadly = great
  • Fair play = well done
Here are some other interesting/funny facts about Ireland:

  • If you die of alcohol poisoning, you are considered a lightweight
  • Chips are called "Taytos" and fizzy drinks are called "mineral"
  • The best cure for a hangover is to go drink some more
  • No one can go a day without saying 'Jaysus'
  • Tea is the solution to every problem
  • It is common to hear people refer to their moms as Mammy even if they're grown adults
  • People are scared of the wooden spoon
  • 'Now we're sucking diesel' means that you are happy with how something turned out
  • Saying "I got stuck behind a tractor" is a perfectly good excuse for being late

Sunday, March 3, 2013

Jewels of the Sun

Another amazing adventure! Yesterday's trip through the southern edges of central Ireland was arguably the best one yet, and on top of that we had the best weather since coming here as well. Upon leaving Limerick, there was hard frost on the ground and everyone was shivering, but by midday the sun was warm and Laura and I had several points during the trip where we had to take off our coats....a rare occurrence here I tell you! The idea behind this trip was to see some of the national monuments and most recognized monuments in Ireland, and they were absolutely spectacular. If we didn't already know we were in Ireland yesterday's adventures were a magical way of letting us know of how much beautiful history is surrounding us. 


Our first stop was to Cahir Castle, in Cahir which is in County Tipperary. Surrounded on three sides by water, the castle dates back to the 13th century and is one of the best preserved throughout the country. Cahir is the largest castle of that period and was controlled by an Anglo-Norman family who sided with the Irish during the Elizabethan wars, however it was briefly overtaken by the Earl of Essex in 1599 when the English somehow managed to breach the castle's high walls. Additions were made to the castle in the 15th century, and then it was finally surrendered to Cromwell in 1650 without a single shot being fired. Cahir has a long and influential history, and its strategic defensive measures give much insight into medieval history which is really quite fascinating. 


 
Besides having an amazingly preserved castle right in the middle of town, Cahir is also a beautiful place in of itself. Right along the river, Cahir provides a great place for cycling, walking, and fishing and it was grand to be outside and see the flowers blooming. What a nice change from chilly Limerick!


The Rock of Cashel, also known as Cashel of the Kings, is a truly spectacular site that I think all of us were in awe of. Cashel is one of the largest and most recognized Irish castle and is situated atop a hill overlooking all of Tipperary. Supposedly, this site is where St. Patrick converted Aenghus King of Munster to Christianity in the 5th century. However most of the buildings themselves date back to the 12th and 13th centuries when the Rock of Cashel (which used to be the seat of the High Kings of Munster) was gifted by the Church. The collection of architectural wonders remain some of the best examples of work from the Celtic medieval period in all of Europe.

 The extensive graveyard that lies behind the Rock of Cashel has revealed graves dating as far back as the 9th and 10th centuries which is truly incredible, and there are several engraved Celtic crosses adorning the graves. The graveyard just adds to the magic of the site, which includes the ruins of a cathedral, a round tower, a fortified tower house, a chapel, and multiple halls. 


The stone walls around the Rock of Cashel were too high to see over, so Laura and I decided to climb up and enjoy the view from a whole new perspective. When we finally found a few chips big enough to use as footholds, we were dumbfounded by how beautiful the landscape was. As I mentioned before, the Rock of Cashel is on top of a large hill and so we could see for miles and miles, and in the distance we found the ruins of an old abbey. I'm not sure how long we stood grasping the top of the wall staring out but we just could not stop looking because it was so exquisite. As Laura put it: "This is Ireland...."


As everyone was running around trying to get funny pictures with each other, Laura and I simply sat in the grass and tried to soak it all in. Had we been prepared for good weather we probably would've spread out a blanket and had our lunch right there! 






After the Rock of Cashel, we traveled to Holy Cross Abbey, an Irish national monument. It was founded in 1168 for the Benedictine Order but soon transferred over to the Cistercians, and it was colonised by monks who followed a tradition of silent living. The Abbey was renovated in the 15th century and managed to avoid closure after King Henry VIII's decree of suppression that affected man of the monasteries across England and Ireland in the mid-1500s. However heavy persecution drove most of the monks into hiding and the abbey deteriorated. The Irish State took over control in the 1800s and declared the abbey to be a national monument.


In the 1970s there was a movement to restore parts of the abbey and make it a site of worship once again. The new abbey was built in a style similar to Cistercian architecture and is a popular site for weddings and other religious ceremonies. The Abbey is also home to the Relic of the True Cross and other ancient religious artifacts, which were stolen in 2011 and miraculously found and restored early in 2012.




Our last stop of the day was to the small rural town of Moneygall, the ancestral home of President Barack Obama. I have to tell you it was so odd walking through an Irish town and seeing so many American flags and memorabilia. There was even a cafe called 'The Obama Cafe.' Ollie Hayes is the pub that Obama visited during his famous trip to Moneygall in May of 2011, and it is located less than a block from the site where his family lived during the 1800s before emigrating to the United States. Obama and his wife were warmly welcomed by the Irish people and there are countless pictures and mementos from his visit throughout the town.


All of us hung out in the pub for awhile visiting, and after talking with the owner of the pub for awhile he offered to show some of us the inside of the house where Obama's family would've lived. It was really a pretty fun experience and of course I had to have some Bailey's hot chocolate. Great way to end the day, and I signed the guestbook saying that I was there in the same pub Obama visited. So there!


Besides all of these great locations we visited, a shout out must be made to our new tour guide Gareth who was absolutely fantastic! It was his first tour and he made it so fun. I especially liked his failed attempt at talking in an American accent and his invitation to crash at his apartment in Dublin if I ever needed a place to stay. Cheers! Until next time :)


Friday, March 1, 2013

Limerick


Today on my bus ride to the city center it hit me how much Limerick and Eugene are alike. Limerick has sort of become the Irish version of home. Though it is the third largest city in Ireland, it is also very much a college city. Most of the foreigners here are drawn to the city because of the university and there are also a few smaller colleges in the heart of the city, which means that there is a huge student population. But what struck me as being the most similar between Eugene and Limerick was the fact that every other building is either a cafe, a bar (called pubs here obviously), or a sports store.

Limerick is often called the European city of Sport, and it is really amazing how many different types of athletic venues are present. There is horse racing, golf, soccer, rugby, hurling, fishing, cycling, and much much more. Eugene is the same way - albeit no horse racing and no rugby. But just as Eugene is home to the iconic Hayward Field and University of Oregon Stadium, Limerick has Thomond Park Stadium which is famous across Europe for its rugby matches, as well as the Gaelic Grounds which is one of the largest football stadiums in the mid-west.

As I sat on the bus looking out the window, I saw so many people out shopping and riding their bikes and walking their dogs, and I thought it was so great to find such familiarity in a place that is so far away from home. Ok, so they drive on the wrong side of the road and they have cool accents and you have to pay for grocery bags and even shopping carts, but the culture has a lot of really cool similarities.




Ok, so you're probably wondering why I posted a picture of a car license plate. At home I've always loved playing the license plate game where you try to find as many different states as you can (usually played on long car trips in an attempt to keep the terrible boredom at bay). But here I have developed a new version of that game: Guess what county of Ireland the car is from. All of the county/city names on the license plates are printed in Gaelic, and while some of them are relatively easy to guess as their Gaelic names resemble their English names others are not so easy. The one in the picture above is from Limerick, or Luimneach in Gaelic. That one was a no brainer for me since that word is posted everywhere here, especially on signs for the university. But every day as I walk through parking lots on campus and on days when I go to town I always look at license plates to ponder over where they are from. Dorky? Yes. But also really fun and challenging. This is my attempt to learn a little Gaelic while I'm here lol.